Cranks... not are created equal

[Red Hot Sloth]

Originally Posted by Upsidedown1

Want my FS to be arpond 23-24 lbs.

Wow, thats pretty light. Sometimes you have to consider how much it will cost to rebuild a bike to a certain weight from what it once was....and of course ya need to take the initial cost of the bike into the equation. Compare that with what it would cost to buy a bike that was originally meant to be built that light , or came from the manufacurer already light. Costs will either be equal or the rebuild is more expensive, Look at the Orbea builds, those are some light bikes. If I knew I was going to have a bike as a dedicated racer, and it needed to be light, I would spend my money on a purpose build. Specialized has some light stuff out there, but compared to other lighter bikes you are spending the same or more, and usually they are still heavier. I guess if the money isn't a concern then by all means keep digging around for something that can get your bike lighter, but cost significantly more, and still have the reality that it won't be as light as a different bike that can accomplish the same task just as well. Just my tarnished 2 cents.
By the way, I have mucho respect for any of you that race, and have the dedication, discipline, and perceverence to maintain a seasonlong of demanding stess on your body both physically and mentally, my hat is off to you peeps. Kudos.

[Pho'dUp]

Originally Posted by Upsidedown1

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have an Specialized Epic that I am trying to drop 3-4 lbs off of. Will start by trying Specialized new Roval Controle wheels. Easton carbon seat post. Monkey lite bars. Crank bros egg beaters. Just was not sure of what crank to use. The local LBS wanted to put on carbon FSA. I just did not see much difference in weight than my XT's I already have. Want my FS to be arpond 23-24 lbs.

Start with the Wheels. And Tires. Definitely can drop lots of cheap weight on tires.

Then maybe the fork.

I'd do all the little bits like seatpost, bars, cranks later as I don't see a huge performance boost with these when upgrading.

23-24lbs. Fully is pretty bling'in. Especially since your Epic frame probably weighs like 6lbs already. Getting it to 25lbs will cost you. Like everyone else said, getting it 23-24lbs will cost you a pretty penny. Have fun$$$.

Scott Spark for you maybe? Light as 20lbs depending on model. But dam expensive.

http://scottusa.com/product/57/598/spark_10

[Edog]

External BB

[Upsidedown1]

I know that 24 lbs is doable for around $1900-$2400 at my LBS. Problem with that is, I can buy the same parts, wheels,tires,bars,stem,seat post,cranks, and if I decide to go even farther, brakes from the net and put them on myself and save a lot of money. Cost would only be at around $1500-$1900. I just would not be supporting my LBS. The mechanic at my LBS already took 3- 3 1/2 lbs off if I chose to go his route. Bike weighs a hair under 27lbs right now, and I am using a Maverick speedball r seat post which is not to light.

[D. Diamond]

If you have $ to spend and want to drop weight everybody telling you to spend it on wheels and tires is correct.
I would recommend getting a custom built wheelset with Stan's Olympic rim DT 190 hubs (or American Classic if you want to save money) and DT Aerolite or Sapim CXray spokes. Get Stan's yellow tape instead of a rim strip and then find a nice light tire that agrees with you (not too light or you may regret it).

PS: Stan's will not build this set for you because they say that the Sapim or Aerolite spokes need too much tension for their rim. If you get a GOOD wheelsmith they can do it at a lower tension, I know several people running this setup... but do it at your own risk. Either way a wheelset like this will DEFINITELY be FRO!

[BFloFoxRider.]

but xt or xtr cranks without the rings, and buy some cheap, lightweight rings and you'll probly have to grind them down a bit where they rub but its a good way to save money and weight...

[allison]

Originally Posted by D. Diamond

PS: Stan's will not build this set for you because they say that the Sapim or Aerolite spokes need too much tension for their rim. If you get a GOOD wheelsmith they can do it at a lower tension, I know several people running this setup... but do it at your own risk. Either way a wheelset like this will DEFINITELY be FRO!

I run a 29er stans wheelset with the aerolites. I've got the Stan's 355 rims, DT Swiss 240s hubs (190s weren't out at the time), Aerolite spokes. They've been great for just over a year!

That is a really pricey setup, though. You could buy an XTR crankset and then something else before hitting the price of the wheelset!

I've got Olympic ZTR's also, but no aerolite's on those.

[mottmcfly]

Originally Posted by Upsidedown1

I've started down that dark path of being weight conscious (weight wiennie) for XC racing. Trying to figure out the lightest crank set w/bottom bracket. Any suggestions would be great.

Check out Cook Bros. Cobalt cranks. I almost lost it when they handed them to me. Ridiculous light but just not strong enough for the AM application I was looking at. That being said you could tell these were made with some serious love and attention to detail. I was actually a little sad handing them back.

Mott

[mottmcfly]

Originally Posted by mechmann

just to reduce confusion, they are made by Crank Bros.

Crap. Thanks for clearing that up. I'm still having a 1980 BMX moment.

[jschwart73]

Originally Posted by mechmann

not everyone has a very talented degreed mechanical engineer to build their wheels for them.

I need a talented mechanical engineer to build me a set of light wheels.

[D. Diamond]

Originally Posted by allison

I run a 29er stans wheelset with the aerolites. I've got the Stan's 355 rims, DT Swiss 240s hubs (190s weren't out at the time), Aerolite spokes. They've been great for just over a year!

That is a really pricey setup, though. You could buy an XTR crankset and then something else before hitting the price of the wheelset!

I've got Olympic ZTR's also, but no aerolite's on those.

Damn Allison, that's a pretty respectable wheelset. My 29'er FRO wheels are Stan's 355 with AmClassics (to save $) and Revolutions: 1529 gr. with yellow rim tape and valves.

Forget about XTR cranks! I'd add a pound to my cranks or BB if it meant I could race on super light wheels.

[Upsidedown1]

Ok, figured out which cranks to get. FSA K-Force Lites. 750g with ceramic BB. Found some lighter ones made in Germany, cost around $1300. Now that is way to much for my budget. Anyways, with these and the rest of the setup I am doing changed my 27lb Epic to 23.5lb and did somewhat affordably. Thanks to all who put in suggestions from STR.

[Red Hot Sloth]

When it's done we gotta see some pics man!!

[JOx2]

join the weight loss challenge, and go to the gym and work out. much easier to loose weight in that department, cheaper too.

[mottmcfly]

Originally Posted by jschwart73

I need a talented mechanical engineer to build me a set of light wheels.

I just put a pair of Mavic SX wheels on my RFX with Nevegal 2.35 tires, a Fox 36 RC fork and XT everything tonight. Total weight. 31.14lbs. a 24lb Epic shouldnt be that hard to achieve.

[Upsidedown1]

You are right, after the wheel/tires the cost per gram of weight quadruples at least if not more. Its going to fun putting it all together. Going to have my LBS install the cranks though. Need to make sure they are faced properly.

[northshore]

Originally Posted by S54MCoupe

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/li...type=cranksets

This is a great site. Thanks!