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#1 (permalink) |
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Minus Delta T
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Since separating my shoulder two months ago, I haven't been able to surf much. Before my crash, usually i'd surf 1-5 times a week... today was only the third time in the past eight weeks.
This morning I checked the spot by my apartment. The waves were head-high, and a couple of feet overhead on the sets. The best part was that there was nobody else out! After paddling-out and promptly getting into a wave, I realised how much i've missed surfing. It's always been a spiritual release for me. Half an hour and eight waves later, my shoulder had had enough. With the stresses i've had in life lately, this was the perfect way to start the week. ![]() I took these photos an hour later when I left for work.
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Kentonn "Nam, where do you get your ass waxed?" Slayer "My cross-dressing days are gone." Remember that when you gaze into the abyss, the abyss also gazes into you. |
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| post thanked by: |
1FG rider (11-04-2008),
andy aka rut (11-04-2008),
CalEpic (11-04-2008),
CA_descender (11-04-2008),
dennis (11-03-2008),
Dino Brown (11-03-2008),
DownHillPhil (11-03-2008),
evdog (11-03-2008),
genusmtbkr5 (11-03-2008),
gooseaholic (11-03-2008),
J_Sims (11-04-2008),
Kid A (11-06-2008),
ksterlingc7 (11-03-2008),
lil__missy (11-04-2008),
lorabee (11-03-2008),
mtnbikerdude87 (11-03-2008),
mtnkitty (11-04-2008),
Pain Freak (11-06-2008),
Reedster (11-06-2008),
Schecky (11-03-2008),
schleppp (11-03-2008),
SheDevil (11-04-2008),
taco-bike (11-04-2008),
TrojanInsomniac (11-04-2008)
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#2 (permalink) |
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live the dream
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While I love mtbing, there is something very, very spiritual about surfing that can't really be duplicated in anything else.
Glad to hear you had an awesome session. Sometimes you can have a crappy session for two hours, and catch one wave that turns it all around and puts a smile on your face for the next week. |
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| post thanked by: |
art23rockpile (11-04-2008),
J_Sims (11-04-2008)
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
a crappy session is still better then a good day doing most anything else... Except of course MTB or spending your day on STR ![]() the water just seems to wash everything else away it is time to dig the Weber back out I have not gotten wet in way too long
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Your actions speak so loud I can't hear a word your saying ![]() Big Thanks to ::: http://www.thepathbikeshop.com/ |
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| post thanked by: |
art23rockpile (11-04-2008)
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#4 (permalink) |
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Fighting "The Man"
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Oh man I miss surfing! I have not surfed in like 4 years
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| post thanked by: |
art23rockpile (11-04-2008)
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#6 (permalink) |
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Isn't it? Isn't it?
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I still don't miss that cold water. I surfed almost everyday for close to 10 years, including all holidays. I guess I got burned out. I tried it again a while back when we went to Hawaii and even though I had a few good waves I have no desire to go back to it. I know it means a lot to a lot of folks, but I jst don't have the desire to do it any longer.
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.................................................. ...................... This space for rent I don't like poached women. I prefer them sunny side up.-Waldo .................................................. ....................... |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Small, but Mighty
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Looks like a nice left.
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L8 APEKS: "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups." Swim, bike, run. www.zippyathlete.blogspot.com |
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