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Old 07-03-2008, 01:46 PM   #21 (permalink)
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So far he hasn't said it broke off in the head, right?

If not...just use a breaker bar. Who cares if the threads are jacked? Just cross the next one in. It doesn't sound like you're gonna have the car that much longer anyway!
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Old 07-03-2008, 01:55 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Smartest reply yet, other than Boat's advice on using the proper tools and not some $5 dollar socket set.
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Old 07-03-2008, 06:01 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L8 APEKS View Post
So far he hasn't said it broke off in the head, right?

If not...just use a breaker bar. Who cares if the threads are jacked? Just cross the next one in. It doesn't sound like you're gonna have the car that much longer anyway!

Actually, if the threads are still there, run a thread chaser in after you get it out, and life is all good.
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Old 07-03-2008, 06:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by spookydave View Post
everytime I see those kits I always wonder how to keep the drill / tap swarf from going into the cylinder.
I don't think I could sleep at night if I did that with the head still on the engine. (but I understand people do it all the time)

Yeah, there are a couple versions, the popular<cheap> version, comes with a tap, and four aluminum inserts. the idea is that the hole is stripped, just run the tap in , then put the insert on the plug.....Yeah, like that works.....


The good ones, are a steel insert, same idea, the tap sizes the hole for you, no drilling, it just takes time. As far as keeping anything out of the hole..... you dont.....When reading hrough the tech tips with either of these kits, it reccomends removing the head before making the repair.

My absolutly favorite kit for ANY thread repair, is made by snap on, there called Timeserts. each kit runs about a hundred dollars, comes with a drill, tap, insert driver, and a couple inserts. drill out your hole, tap it, special tap too, only taps as far as needed for the insert, drill works that way too, leaves a nice counter bore for the insert to sit into, then you clean it, put your insert in the end of the driver, thread it down into your hole, it botoms out in the counter bore made by the special drill that come with the kit. then you run the driver through the insert which expands it into place, little notches in the threads lock in in. to this day I have never had on come loose.





P.S. On a car with this many miles, I dont think I would be woried about the small amount of shavings that will get into teh cylender if this indeed be the coarse of action needed
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Old 07-03-2008, 06:16 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Default A local shop will try Saturday...

The Head repair shop will charge $70 if they need to rethread or I need to remove the head and they will drill new holes! Or should I trade in for an element or a civic?
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Old 07-03-2008, 06:25 PM   #26 (permalink)
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if you do chase the threads use some bearing grease on the tap so the shavings stick and dont fall into the cylinder.
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Old 07-03-2008, 06:26 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bighit8 View Post
if you do chase the threads use some bearing grease on the tap so the shavings stick and dont fall into the cylinder.
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Old 07-03-2008, 06:29 PM   #28 (permalink)
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at 215k it might be time for a new car.But there is a place in Santa Ana that uses laser to get out stripped bolts.I used to repair older jags that have studs that go into the block and the head slides down studs.They always break trying to get them out due to the fact coolant is circulating around them.Stupid freaking design.But I used the place in Santa Ana a few time.Dont recall the name.
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Old 07-03-2008, 06:31 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bighit8 View Post
if you do chase the threads use some bearing grease on the tap so the shavings stick and dont fall into the cylinder.

I fyour using a thread "Chaser" there wont be any shavings, a chaser doesnt cut threads, it folds them back into place!!!!!


But if you use a tap, then you want to use a cutting oil anyways, that way the threads and proper.




70 bucks to put an insert in if needed..... that sounds like the way to go!!!
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Old 07-03-2008, 06:34 PM   #30 (permalink)
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oops,I meant tap not Chase.but you get my drift.
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Old 07-03-2008, 06:43 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by airgabe View Post
The Head repair shop will charge $70 if they need to rethread or I need to remove the head and they will drill new holes! Or should I trade in for an element or a civic?
Can you buy an Element or Civic for 70 bucks?

Seriously...you have a very minor problem on your hands. An hour or two, and maybe 70 bucks. I'd say getting a new car would take more time and money than that.

Rip out that plug and then see where you're at. You won't know what to do next until the plug is out. It's probably seized, not crossed, which means your threads will be just fine. All you should need is another $1 spark plug.
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Old 07-03-2008, 06:58 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by L8 APEKS View Post
Can you buy an Element or Civic for 70 bucks?

Seriously...you have a very minor problem on your hands. An hour or two, and maybe 70 bucks. I'd say getting a new car would take more time and money than that.

Rip out that plug and then see where you're at. You won't know what to do next until the plug is out. It's probably seized, not crossed, which means your threads will be just fine. All you should need is another $1 spark plug.

I agree here, chances are, that once it breaks loose, it will come out just fine. Just remember the Antiseize on the new one!!!!
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Old 07-03-2008, 07:09 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L8 APEKS View Post
So far he hasn't said it broke off in the head, right?

If not...just use a breaker bar. Who cares if the threads are jacked? Just cross the next one in. It doesn't sound like you're gonna have the car that much longer anyway!

I worked with an All Star that changed his plugs once. The next day on his way to work his car spit 3 of the 4 plugs out and left 3 dents in the hood. lol
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Old 07-03-2008, 07:15 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtymikeTDB View Post
My absolutly favorite kit for ANY thread repair, is made by snap on, there called Timeserts. each kit runs about a hundred dollars, comes with a drill, tap, insert driver, and a couple inserts. drill out your hole, tap it, special tap too, only taps as far as needed for the insert, drill works that way too, leaves a nice counter bore for the insert to sit into, then you clean it, put your insert in the end of the driver, thread it down into your hole, it botoms out in the counter bore made by the special drill that come with the kit. then you run the driver through the insert which expands it into place, little notches in the threads lock in in. to this day I have never had on come loose.





P.S. On a car with this many miles, I dont think I would be woried about the small amount of shavings that will get into teh cylender if this indeed be the coarse of action needed

Timeserts are made by Timesert. Snap on sells them though. They work nice on pulled head studs too.


70 bucks is normal shop rate and not a bad deal. But if you don't R&R the head yourself that's where the money will be. I agree with the others, get it out and see what's next.
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Old 07-03-2008, 07:33 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Hmmm, seems I need to hammer on My snap on rep about misimformation. Either way, its a great product
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Old 07-03-2008, 09:26 PM   #36 (permalink)
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http://www.timesert.com/
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Old 07-03-2008, 09:34 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Thats them!!!
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Old 07-05-2008, 01:57 PM   #38 (permalink)
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a local head repair shop extracted both stuck plugs, they rethreaded on and added an insert for the second one. They informed me that my wires were bad so for a grand total of $50 my car is fixed...new wires under lifetime warranty thus free from autozone...Thanks guys for all the asssistance.New spark plugs also!!!
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Thats them!!!
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Old 07-05-2008, 10:28 PM   #39 (permalink)