Is there an advantage to a 4"-5" adjustable bike?

[UR2KLOS]

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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]I’ve been looking for the ultimate XC+ bike and one of the bikes I’m looking at is the Titus Moto Lite II. It has a light frame and a Horst link and looks like a Chumba XCL for light people that aren’t going to jump off of stuff. One of the interesting things about the bike is that by moving the rear shock bolt to a different hole you can change the bike from a 4” travel bike to a 5” travel bike. I’m trying to figure out if there is any advantage to this.[/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]In the olden days, hardtail bikes climbed hills better than squishy bikes, and the more travel the squishy bike had the worse it climbed. Then they came out with pro-pedal rear shocks which make squishy bikes climb as well as hardtails. If I have a pro-pedal shock is there any advantage to getting a bike that can switch between 4” and 5” of travel? The salesman at Revo said 4” climbs better than 5” but I didn’t understand how this can be the case.[/SIZE][/FONT]
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[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]Thank you [/FONT][/SIZE]

[Rob]

By going to 4" the head angle goes up about a degree which will help keep the front end from popping up when climbing.

I was at Revo today too...I'm one of the mechanics

What do you think of the shop?

[schleppp]

Originally Posted by UR2KLOS

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] by moving the rear shock bolt to a different hole you can change the bike from a 4” travel bike to a 5” travel bike. [/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3][/SIZE]

The amount of travel I get always depends on which hole I am putting my bolt in...

[UR2KLOS]

Wouldn't shortening the TALAS fork on really steep stuff make more of a difference than changing the rear shock bolt?

Revo looks like a nice shop but it seems like a Specialized shop that also has a few non-Specialized bikes. They had very few 2007 Titus bikes and no small ML IIs and no 2008 Titus bikes at all. I didn't ask about demo bikes on this trip but when I went in before (right before they moved) they had no demo ML bikes and weren't planning on getting any in. I hope this doesn't sound negative because it isn;t meant to be. Does anyone who works there ride a Titus? Do they sell many of them?

I can't wait to see to 2008 YELLOW Moto Lite. Sweet.

[Rob]

Originally Posted by UR2KLOS

Wouldn't shortening the TALAS fork on really steep stuff make more of a difference than changing the rear shock bolt?

That helps too

I guess the advantage of having that option is that if you know it's going to be a big climbing day you get that extra bit of head angle. Use that in conjunction with the travel adjust on the fork and you can get an even steeper head angle for climbing.

Just more options.

Revo looks like a nice shop but it seems like a Specialized shop that also has a few non-Specialized bikes. They had very few 2007 Titus bikes and no small ML IIs and no 2008 Titus bikes at all. I didn't ask about demo bikes on this trip but when I went in before (right before they moved) they had no demo ML bikes and weren't planning on getting any in. I hope this doesn't sound negative because it isn;t meant to be. Does anyone who works there ride a Titus? Do they sell many of them?

I can't wait to see to 2008 YELLOW Moto Lite. Sweet.

They definitely sell more Spec than Titus. I can ask if we can call in for a Rep to bring a demo. Maybe I can see about setting up a Demo day with Titus, Felt and Niner(the other brands we sell) I'll look in to it.

[RacinJason]

You will not be lowering your rear end of you want to climb. Reason= Lowering the rear will slacken your head angle. This is what you do for DH bikes.
Also lowering your rear end makes every hill seem steeper. This makes climbing uncomfortable. Lowering your fork and sitting forward on the seat will help you climb. A longer stem will also help you. You can add propedal this will tighten up your rear end this can at time help you climb. I run it open at all times.

[roadkillross]

thats what she said. sorry had to

[RacinJason]

If you don't mind lowering your BB and you are going to run a 130 mm max fork you might want to set your bike up with 4 inches of travel. In the long run it might make your bike weigh less.
Lowering the BB might also cause you to hit your pedals on everything.

Originally Posted by UR2KLOS

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]I’ve been looking for the ultimate XC+ bike and one of the bikes I’m looking at is the Titus Moto Lite II. It has a light frame and a Horst link and looks like a Chumba XCL for light people that aren’t going to jump off of stuff. One of the interesting things about the bike is that by moving the rear shock bolt to a different hole you can change the bike from a 4” travel bike to a 5” travel bike. I’m trying to figure out if there is any advantage to this.[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]In the olden days, hardtail bikes climbed hills better than squishy bikes, and the more travel the squishy bike had the worse it climbed. Then they came out with pro-pedal rear shocks which make squishy bikes climb as well as hardtails. If I have a pro-pedal shock is there any advantage to getting a bike that can switch between 4” and 5” of travel? The salesman at Revo said 4” climbs better than 5” but I didn’t understand how this can be the case.[/SIZE][/FONT]

[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]Thank you [/FONT][/SIZE]

That might have popped up when i walked away from my computer.

That always happens I type so slow and it take so long to answer things that by the time I hit submit the questions are answered already.

Originally Posted by roadkillross

thats what she said. sorry had to

[Rob]

Just for reference.

[mcgrath]

I have a motolite and chumba jason is right. changing the rear travel does not steepen the head angle, but slackens it just a hair. Why the head angle is "steeper" in 4" mode is because you would typically mate it with a 4" travel fork.

I've have had the motolite for a while now and really like it. I've had it with a 6" AM1 for a long while and just recently switched it over to a 4/5" adjustable fork. It certainly feels more XC like in this mode. I have it built up pretty well at 27lbs. If you'd like to ride it sometime, maybe we can meet at aliso. The bike can certainly take some serious abuse, and climbs very well.

As for the 4" mode, I really don't think there is that much benefit to it unless you plan to race and want to get that head angle down. Even then, you could leave it at 5" rear, it climbs very well.

Also, depending on the riding, you may want to look at the chumba instead. The stock shock on the ML is a RP23. The bike really comes alive when mated to a DHX air, or something with a higher air can. This is better suited for more aggressive trails. The RP23 is better for more XC riding. I have the DHX on mine. With the RP23 I had to run lower pressure at almost 50% sag. The chumba comes with the DHX air stock, and it may have just a hair slacker HA. ML has a 69.25* HA in 5", and 71* in 4".

hopefully that answers some questions.

[alank]

Originally Posted by mcgrath

I have a motolite and chumba jason is right. changing the rear travel does not steepen the head angle, but slackens it just a hair. Why the head angle is "steeper" in 4" mode is because you would typically mate it with a 4" travel fork.

I've have had the motolite for a while now and really like it. I've had it with a 6" AM1 for a long while and just recently switched it over to a 4/5" adjustable fork. It certainly feels more XC like in this mode. I have it built up pretty well at 27lbs. If you'd like to ride it sometime, maybe we can meet at aliso. The bike can certainly take some serious abuse, and climbs very well.

As for the 4" mode, I really don't think there is that much benefit to it unless you plan to race and want to get that head angle down. Even then, you could leave it at 5" rear, it climbs very well.

Also, depending on the riding, you may want to look at the chumba instead. The stock shock on the ML is a RP23. The bike really comes alive when mated to a DHX air, or something with a higher air can. This is better suited for more aggressive trails. The RP23 is better for more XC riding. I have the DHX on mine. With the RP23 I had to run lower pressure at almost 50% sag. The chumba comes with the DHX air stock, and it may have just a hair slacker HA. ML has a 69.25* HA in 5", and 71* in 4".

hopefully that answers some questions.

thanks for the info. mcgrath...fyi, i just posted this press release today on mtbr for those interested in a rp23 chumba http://reviews.mtbr.com/blog/chumba-...23-under-7lbs/

[Rob]

Originally Posted by mcgrath

changing the rear travel does not steepen the head angle, but slackens it just a hair. Why the head angle is "steeper" in 4" mode is because you would typically mate it with a 4" travel fork.

That makes sense. I figured they used the same fork for their measurements.

[RacinJason]

The XCL now comes with the option . You can have either the rp23 or the DHX AIR. No difference in price.
The RP23 is easier to set up and its lighter.
Our DHX air shock is not the same one you see at the shops. It is specked just for Chumba with a rp23 can with a dhx reservoir. It ads volume to the oil and air. It changes the ramp up rate of the shock to make it have the best ride in its class. The RP23 we sell is valved to do the same with less weight.

[mechmann]

i would honestly have to add another bike to your list. if i were buying a 26" wheeled bike in that suspension category, i would take a long hard look at the Bionicon. nothing like being able to adjust your geometry at will!! climbing steeps = make it steep, descending = slack it out.

[mcgrath]

Look at the IH MKIII too. Cheaper.

[SAR_boats]

There is also the Rocky Mountain ETSX eh! 4, 4.5, and 5" of travel, no allen wrench required. And it is a faux-bar linkage so the leverage ratio changes instead of the Head angle.

[mtnbikerfred]

Originally Posted by mechmann

...i would take a long hard look at the Bionicon. nothing like being able to adjust your geometry at will!! climbing steeps = make it steep, descending = slack it out.

I'm not sure if it's worth the weight penalty or the price (considering my Kona does everything 75% or better than the Bionicon in either mode), but the Bionicon Ironwood was freaky to ride. It seriously "change shape" underneath me (including riding position in relationship to the BB). The only thing that could make more difference would be it if the stem moved too....

If you like the Titus, get it. You should hit Jason up for a Chumba Demo though. Go ride some other XC bikes too.

I would set up any conventional bike up to do the most things well, not just climb. If you have a 5" bike, put a 5" fork with adjustable travel on it it and it will climb better with no compromise in BB height nor will it change your seating position for the rest of the day. Don't go too long on the stem length, even if it feels great on steep climbs. You want to be comfortable on the long rides too.

jmy2¢. ymmv

[slayer]

another great xc bike is the specialized epic. i just got one and i love it. rear shock locks out when climbing and opens when you hit a bump. it has 4 in. of travel. not having to worry about locking and unlocking the shock is very nice. set the firmness and go ride. it climbs great and feels light. my .02