How much front suspension is enough?

[Geronimo]

Once you get used to what you can do with a 4-5" bike you might want more. If you have addictive tendencies then look at a bike equipped with an adjustable travel fork like the fox 36 talas. Or marzocchi 66sl. 5 1/2" forks like the pike are excellent as well and adjustable with the u-turn option.

[Chewyeti]

sounds like an adjustable travel fork, or one with a lockout is the key....

rocks on climbs, and you can custom taylor your travel for the downhill side

[DownhillWebKook]

I run a Specialized Enduro SX with a Fox 36 up front (for XC, SuperD, DH, Freeride, Dual Slalom, MTX, etc.). It has like 4" in the rear and I ride the 36 in the lowest setting most of the time (~ 4"-5").

This bike is really meant for MTX so the head angle is pretty slack. This makes for a bit more aggressive geometry and really takes the sting off the impacts in spite of having a moderate amount of travel.

I see a lot of guys riding these new Chumbas (there is a really nice one showcased on this site somewhere) and other similar bikes and I think you'll find those folks riding 5"-6" forks for the all-mtn and even freeride applications. These bikes have slacker head angles as well so they are really forgiving on the descents. What's great is that they still pedal very well when it's time to climb back to the top.

I guess a lot of it depends on how you want to use the bike: more of a climbing bike or more of a descender or a mix of both. For me, I prefer less travel (even on my DH bikes--my Fox 40s are set to 6.5") in favor of more nimble handling, BUT I compensate by looking for bikes with slack angles and forks that are very stiff and robust.

Man, so many choices out there for you. Good luck finding the right one.

[Smirnus]

Have you thought about how much travel you want in the back? I'm assuming you want a full susser here.

[Evil Chocula]

I obsessed over a 140mm fork versus a 160mm for a long time. My advice; keep a ruler handy, and look at how miniscule 20mm's are from time to time to keep yourself in check. I woudn't get to wrapped up in the numbers. Just my $.02.

PS Here's an actual 20mm: <--------->
It's the distance between the middle segment of my index finger, not very signifigant.

[DeeZee]

Originally Posted by Evil Chocula

I obsessed over a 140mm fork versus a 160mm for a long time. My advice; keep a ruler handy, and look at how miniscule 20mm's are from time to time to keep yourself in check. I woudn't get to wrapped up in the numbers. Just my $.02.

PS Here's an actual 20mm: <--------->
It's the distance between the middle segment of my index finger, not very signifigant.

you and your crew need as much travel as possible jump'in them planks with no helmet and all

[2wheel_lee]

By the way, 20 mm difference in fork height is a significant change in bike handling. It's nearly 1-degree change in head angle, and almost 10 mm in bottom bracket height.

Some may welcome a slacker head angle, which results in more stable handling, but the compromise is less responsive steering.

The taller bottom bracket is good for crank clearance in the rocks, but reduces the bike's stability.

Note that I am refering to fork height in a general sense, not travel. The key measurement is axle-to-crown height. Some forks, particularly Marzocchi, have a tall axle-to-crown height for a given travel compared to other brands. This is an important specifcation to consider, and understanding the results is important.

So what I'm saying is that a 20 mm change in fork height is significant!

[Evel Knievel]

Originally Posted by DeeZee

I need less travel now that I am roll'in on the big hoops

Big wheels rewrite the book on how much travel you need.

[Evil Chocula]

Originally Posted by DeeZee

you and your crew need as much travel as possible jump'in them planks with no helmet and all

I don't know if you noticed, but my boy with the mad "skillz" was riding a hardtail with a 100mm fork as he rocked all those drops!

[DeeZee]

Originally Posted by Evil Chocula

I don't know if you noticed, but my boy with the mad "skillz" was riding a hardtail with a 100mm fork as he rocked all those drops!

I also think that with a 150mm front fork it will decrease the chances of splitting his mellon open.

But hey that is just me

[DownhillWebKook]

Originally Posted by Evel Knievel

Big wheels rewrite the book on how much travel you need.

I am wholly opposed to 29" wheels for my own personal use. I don't like mayo and I don't like 29" wheels. No good reason for either.

Nevertheless, there is a really cool article about Bierman's choice of the 29'er as his SuperD secret weapon. Opens the eyes a bit.

http://www.mbaction.com/ME2/dirmod.a...2607C26E785578

Originally Posted by Evil Chocula

I don't know if you noticed, but my boy with the mad "skillz" was riding a hardtail with a 100mm fork as he rocked all those drops!

I love when people brag about how bad ass they are with a hardtail doing drops and such. Nice work, but doesn't it do a number on the boys?

[Evil Chocula]

Originally Posted by DownhillWebKook

I love when people brag about how bad ass they are with a hardtail doing drops and such. Nice work, but doesn't it do a number on the boys?

Huh?

This wasn't me, it was my friend, and I wasn't bragging about his abilities. I was just pointing another odd mountain biking trait he exhihibted in my RR (The first being his lack of helmet) to DeeZee. I ride a 6' full squish!

And, I don't think he hits drops sitting in the saddle, so the boys are probaly fine, but he only he knows for sure!

[spookydave]

Originally Posted by 2wheel_lee

Note that I am refering to fork height in a general sense, not travel. The key measurement is axle-to-crown height. Some forks, particularly Marzocchi, have a tall axle-to-crown height for a given travel compared to other brands. This is an important specifcation to consider, and understanding the results is important.

ding ding ding, we have a winner over here!!

Think of the front fork as part of the "system". Get the one the frame was designed around.

[DeeZee]

Originally Posted by DownhillWebKook

I am wholly opposed to 29" wheels for my own personal use. I don't like mayo and I don't like 29" wheels. No good reason for either.

Nevertheless, there is a really cool article about Bierman's choice of the 29'er as his SuperD secret weapon. Opens the eyes a bit.

http://www.mbaction.com/ME2/dirmod.a...2607C26E785578



I love when people brag about how bad ass they are with a hardtail doing drops and such. Nice work, but doesn't it do a number on the boys?

"I am wholly opposed to 29" wheels for my own personal use. I don't like mayo and I don't like 29" wheels. No good reason for either." This is sig material!

I used to feel the same way about disk brakes and suspension




[SIZE=1]just kidding.....29'ers are not for everyone[/SIZE]

[boludo]

Just go in with the thought that 5 inches is the minimum you'll want. In other words, think like a woman.
Just find a suspension design that is efficient for climbing that will also open up the rest of the gammit, DH, jumping, drops, etc....
For instance Intense 5.5, Blur LT, Marin Wolf Ridge, IH MK or 6 point, etc....
I have 5 front, 6 rear, and life couldnt be better. thats coming from a 120/120 on the previous bike. 120 was not enuf for me.

[Evil Chocula]

Originally Posted by 2wheel_lee

By the way, 20 mm difference in height is a significant change

Thats what she said!

[PacMan]

An adjustable travel fork is another sweet option. I ran a 90-130mm TALAS on my 575 before I went to a 120-160mm ALL Mountain SL1. IMHO, the low setting of 120mm is makes more sense as I rarely dialed the TALAS down to below 100mm. I run it in 130-140mm for most things, 120mm for climbs and open it up to 160mm for the more techy DH's.

Just something else to consider, as if there weren't enough choices out there.