Custom Anodizing for bikes?

[Evil Chocula]

I've read the powder coat threads... but does anyone know a place that does custom anodizing? If so, whats the price, process, etc. Thanks!

[Neccros]

Originally Posted by Evil Chocula

I've read the powder coat threads... but does anyone know a place that does custom anodizing? If so, whats the price, process, etc. Thanks!

Only downside to anodizing is the surface of whatever you are anodizing has to be PERFECTLY smooth and clean to get a good even color... And also anodizing actually eats SLIGHTLY into the metal itself....

Price is usually more since the process is less enviromentally friendly than powdercoating...

Just my $.002... Oh and keep the change!

[J_Sims]

I used this company ro anno some parts on my chopper....

Came out nice and they seem pretty professional

Dunham Metal Processing[SIZE=+1]Dunham Metal Processing[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Write a review[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]936 N Parker St[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Orange, CA 92867[/SIZE]

[SIZE=-1](714) 532-5551
[/SIZE]

[DeeZee]

Originally Posted by Evil Chocula

I've read the powder coat threads... but does anyone know a place that does custom anodizing? If so, whats the price, process, etc. Thanks!

done in HALO RED??

ps. PM Burner (Mat) I know he had his hubs anodized

DZ

[Evil Chocula]

Cool guys... I might just stick to the powder coating, anodizing seems like it could be even more of a pain.

[2wheel_lee]

Originally Posted by J_Sims

I used this company ro anno some parts on my chopper....

Came out nice and they seem pretty professional

Dunham Metal Processing[SIZE=+1]Dunham Metal Processing[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Write a review[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]936 N Parker St[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Orange, CA 92867[/SIZE]

[SIZE=-1](714) 532-5551[/SIZE]

I've used this same company to anodize one of my older GT i-Drives. At the time, it was $90 for the front and rear triangles.

I'm not sure what Neccros meant by it must be perfectly smooth and clean, because I'm sure they'll clean it for you. They can also anodize the welds, which aren't very smooth. I took my frame there already fully polished.

The biggest factor in the outcome of the color is the type and/or hardness of the aluminum. For example, a 7005 series frame will come out differently than one made of 6061. Unfortunately, I don't know too much about it. I chose one particular blue, but because the aluminum was harder than the aluminum from the sample I chose, it came out a bit darker.

[2wheel_lee]

Originally Posted by Evil Chocula

Cool guys... I might just stick to the powder coating, anodizing seems like it could be even more of a pain.

It's easier than powder coating. Although Olympic is pretty good, with anodizing, you don't have to worry about tolerances getting messed up from the thickness of the coat, such as around bearings, seat tubes, heat tubes, shock mounts, holes for brake calipers, etc.

And although anodizing scratches, like paint, it does not chip. You can also more easily inspect welds for cracks. The only downside to anodizing is that it can fade (don't get red). When I sold this frame a few years later, it cleaned up and looked good as new. No paint job, no matter how you take care of it, looks good for very long on a mountain bike ride.

Oh, and did I mention that an anodized frame is lighter than a powder coated frame?

[Flat Broke]

Dunham does Ano for a large SoCal aftermarket Marine parts supplier and they know what they are doing, so that would be a safe place to take your job for sure. Reds and golds fade ultra fast, and as such, I'd stay away from those colors.

There seems to be some confusion about surface prep and the results you'll see in your anno job. If you want a cool shiny translucent color like the Idrive pictured above, then you'd need to polish the frame/part before ano. However, if you want a more durable/maintenence free option, consider having the frame shot peened (you need to check with your MFG on warranty issues) then ano'd. You'll get a finish like the Santa Cruz, Giant, etc matte ano finishes which don't seem to show scratches etc. as easily.

Another aspect to ano that hasn't been mentioned is that depending on the process, the surface hardness of the finish can vary. Basically, when a part is anodized, the outer layer of the part is turned to aluminum oxide then aluminum hydrate. The color you see is just a dye that is absorbed into the outer layer of the part. The harder the anodizing surface hardness, the higher the pore density of the part. The smaller the pore size/higher pore density, the fewer colors that can be dyed into the part. It's not like there is a sliding scale for colors and surface hardness, but certain ano proceedures will yeild specific hardness levels (the real reason parts get ano'd) an as that hardness level changes, the available dyes that will work with the new surface properties changes as well.

Matte ano'd frames and parts look cool and have always had a "down to business" vibe in my book.

Good luck with it,
Chris

[spookydave]

I'm a powder coat hater and an anodizing freak. Both have their draw backs. Powder coat chips and what I can not live with is it builds up the part. I bust my azz to make it right on the money and when I get it back it is larger. Oh, and it chips and scratches. Stuff is real nice in threaded holes too. NOT

Anodize parts come back the same size. And I just like the look. Threaded holes still fit my thread gauges just like they did before I sent them out. The down fall is the stuff fades over time. Red turns pink. Blue holds up pretty well and black just fades to black. Ever see a crappy looking Thomson seat post?

Dunham does a great job. And they are who I use when I do custom work hands down. All my producton goes to Ideal Anodizing in Anaheim. They do a good job for alot less.
Like other types of processes they have a min. lot charge. Ideal is 80 bucks min. charge. I can get alot of small parts done for that.

[J_Sims]

Same challenges here building motorcycles.... Nothng like a seized thread chaser broke off in a bolt hole of a frame....

[spookydave]

Originally Posted by 2wheel_lee

The biggest factor in the outcome of the color is the type and/or hardness of the aluminum. For example, a 7005 series frame will come out differently than one made of 6061. Unfortunately, I don't know too much about it. I chose one particular blue, but because the aluminum was harder than the aluminum from the sample I chose, it came out a bit darker.

It also varies from batch to batch. I send parts out every week and they are always 6061. Sometimes they are a little darker then others. Ya have some unskilled yahoo making the call on when to pull it out of the tank. They get it close most of the time. On big custom jobs everything is always done at the same time for that reason.