Bike Cleaners/Lubricants....

[Dino Brown]

I went to my local bike shop yesterday to pick-up a few (much needed) supplies.
One of the items on my list was bike lubricant.
I had LITERALLY 10 choices.

* What brands have you had the most success with?
* Differences between wet and wax based chain lubes?
* Favorite BB/Brake/Hub/Pivot bolt lube?

* Should fork seals be lubricated?
* Do you recommend "thread lockers"
* Is Simple Green safe to use on bike chains? Brake pads/rotors?
* Best way to rinse off a bike

Any advice would be most appreciated!

[BoingBoing]

Originally Posted by Dino Brown

* Differences between wet and wax based chain lubes?

The wet gets my Levis dirty. The wax builds up on the chain and gears. Wait, I don't wear Levis riding. Oh, that's why I like the wet!

* Do you recommend "thread lockers"

On der limiter screws and other adjusters.

* Best way to rinse off a bike:

Gently.

[Rossage]

* What brands have you had the most success with?
I used to use White lightning but have since switched to Finishline teflon dry

* Differences between wet and wax based chain lubes?
Wet lubes seem to gunk up easier than dry but they do last longer

* Favorite BB/Brake/Hub/Pivot bolt lube?
Phil Wood or Finishline synthetic

* Should fork seals be lubricated?
I put a drop or two on the stanchions to keep them moist

* Do you recommend "thread lockers"
I use loctite blue on all bolts related to disc brakes, rotors

* Is Simple Green safe to use on bike chains?
Safe on bike chains
Brake pads/rotors? I only use alcohol

* Best way to rinse off a bike
Hose without nozzle (flame on water impregnation freaks!)

I have been riding for a long time and I have found that this works for me. If it dont work for you-do what works for you!
Later, Rossage

[Draheim18]

Originally Posted by Dino Brown

I went to my local bike shop yesterday to pick-up a few (much needed) supplies.
One of the items on my list was bike lubricant.
I had LITERALLY 10 choices.

* What brands have you had the most success with?
* Differences between wet and wax based chain lubes?
* Favorite BB/Brake/Hub/Pivot bolt lube?

* Should fork seals be lubricated?
* Do you recommend "thread lockers"
* Is Simple Green safe to use on bike chains? Brake pads/rotors?
* Best way to rinse off a bike

Any advice would be most appreciated!

Why didn't you ask these questions at the Fullerton clinic .

I can only answer a couple of those though.

I use Pedro's Road Rage Wet Lube for everything.

Wax lube is a liquid but dries into a wax after applying it. The negative with wax lube is that dirt sticks to it. If I remember correctly, Lee said just stick with wet lube. You can buy it in a spray can or a bottle with a eye dropper type end. And it is personally preference on what one you want. The spray is easier to apply, but you can end up spraying way too much on.

Not sure if fork seals need to be lubricated, but I don't think it hurts.

Simple Green is fine to use on the chain. Or you can get one of those chain cleaner things that you put around the chain and pedal (Freddie said that he tells everyone that buys a new chain to get it because it works well).

The way I clean my bike is with a bucket of soapy water with a rag and a soft brush. You start at the handle bars and work your way down and back until you get to the BB. Then start at the seat and work your way down and back to the end of the rear triangle. You then do the same thing with a bucket of regular water to rinse the bike and dry it with a towel. Then lube everything up.

[SnookDawg]

I use lightweight synthetic Mobil 1 motor oil on my chain and it works great. After every couple rides (or one long ride) I use a brush on the cogs/chain, then reapply the synthetic.

I have used just about every bike-specific lube out there, and I haven't found anything to be noticeably better than synth motor oil. I am sure industry wonks will disagree.

I also use simple green about 1:5 in water to clean my chain if it gets really bad, but if it is dry (even dried out after a muddy ride) I just use a large brush like you'd use in a brush/dustpan combo. Hold the brush on the cassette while spinning the cranks for 20 seconds and your cassette and chain will be darn clean.

[slo65]

Mot too much input as i'm a, nUb. just a question, those of you who know me/have ridding with me know my bike creaks like a b, GOT RID OF THE CREAK! yea i know, no longer will i be embarrassed to go on group rides! Problem was the rear hangers, they're removeable i greased them with some "multipurpose lithium grease" worked well but i can tell it's already starting to wear off after 1-2 rides, any suggestions on what else to use back there to keep the creak away?

[bighit8]

I used triflow,pedros gold (I think for awhile). I'm not a fan of wet lubes. I use white lighting as it is easy to clean and does not attract as much dirt as the wet lube. I clean the drive train after every ride and relube the drive train. As far as washing I use a soapy rag, wipe it all down and lightly rinse and try to avoid any where water can puddle. I then lube all the pivots, Shock and fork with a teflon lubricant. Once a month or so, I take apart the drive train and give it a through scrubing.

[KBL]

OK, I'll play.

--I've tried dry chain lubes: White Lightening, Pro Link, Pedro's Extra Dry, and Boeshield T-9. I didn't like any of them. They don't stay on the chain long enough.

--On one ride at Chilao, my brother and I lubed our chains in the parking lot before we hit the trail. He used Pedro's Extra Dry, and I used Pedro's Synlube ATB wet lube. By the end of the ride, his chain was dry as a bone, and devoid of lubricant. You could hear it. Mine continued to run silent and smooth the entire time. Even if you apply the lube well in advance of the ride (the way you're supposed to so the carrier can evaporate, which leaves the wax lubricant behind) the chain still ends up parched by the end of the ride. I'd rather have a smooth-running chain that needs periodic cleaning than a dry, stretched-out chain that in turn ruins my cassette and chainrings.

--On the chain, I give dry lubes a thumbs-down. I like dry lubes on pedals/cleats (I use Speedplay Frog pedals--you lube the cleat instead of the pedal) and on cables and on derailleur pivots. For those applications, dry lubes get a thumbs-up from me.

--I use Simple Green to clean my chain. Lately, I've been removing the chain from the bike and cleaning it with a brush. A SRAM Power Link makes removing and installing easy, but you already know that.

--I usually remove my cassette from the rear wheel before I clean it. This keeps water and solvent out of the rear hub.

--I'm becoming a fan of cleaning my bike with a wet rag instead of a hose. Even though I've been careful with a hose in the past, I found that water still got in my "sealed" pivot cartridge bearings. A wet rag minimizes this. If the bike's REALLY muddy, then the hose and a brush is the only option, but it needs to be followed up with a pivot greasing session.

--Brake rotor can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol. It leaves no residue.

--If my brake pads are gunked up or otherwise contaminated, I'll run them across sandpaper to give them a fresh grabbing surface.

--Blue loctite is safe to use on bike fasteners. Red or Green (penetrating grade) loctite is too strong and you risk parts breakage--these are best saved for automotive projects. One drop of blue loctite is all that's needed, and the parts must be grease-free and dry for the loctite to function effectively.

--I like to dab a drop of Tri-flow on spoke nipples before I true a wheel. It keeps the nipples from seizing in the rim or on the threads.