King of Kings?

[Red Hot Sloth]

Originally Posted by BSki

Thanks RHS, thats what I was looking for.

Thanks all for the input.

Chew goatit mang!

[allison]

Originally Posted by BSki

Hmm, so they are just bling?

I guess what I am getting at, is this a part I should be concerned about upgrading?

If you need a new one and have the scratch (and a desire for King goods) go for it. If not, then wait til you do need a new headset or are doing a build. By then you may want the new Crank Bro's!

Justin is thinking about getting one for his future build Otherwise? King orange.

[jamesdc]

I personally dont like king headsets. Mine wouldn't stop loosening, I'd tighten it up and the next rock it would loosen. I'm not sure if it was worn out but I think they are way too overpriced. Now I am running a sunline v2 and I absolutly love it. The paralel contact bearings are great because its almost impossible for it to come loose.

[2wheel_lee]

Originally Posted by BSki

Keep in mind I am on a stock Spec FSR and a complete n00b when it comes to parts. From my understanding, a headset is only good for compressing the bar spacers prior to tightening the stem.

Edjumacate me please.

By the way, some Specialized frames use a slightly oversized headset with cups slightly larger than the standard. I'm not sure about other headset companies, but Chris King does offer an oversized headset for these Specialized frames.

[G-Ride]

Originally Posted by jamesdc

I personally dont like king headsets. Mine wouldn't stop loosening, I'd tighten it up and the next rock it would loosen. I'm not sure if it was worn out but I think they are way too overpriced. Now I am running a sunline v2 and I absolutly love it. The paralel contact bearings are great because its almost impossible for it to come loose.

Sounds like you either had a star-nut that was slipping, or you had a bad bolt. In any case, that is definitely a rare exception for King headsets.

[2wheel_lee]

Originally Posted by jamesdc

I personally dont like king headsets. Mine wouldn't stop loosening, I'd tighten it up and the next rock it would loosen. I'm not sure if it was worn out but I think they are way too overpriced. Now I am running a sunline v2 and I absolutly love it. The paralel contact bearings are great because its almost impossible for it to come loose.

With proper installation, headsets of any most brand do not come loose.

[DBD]

CK are good, durable headset but I do not use 'em. A few years ago (2002 I believe) before they were imported (patent issues) I brought over a few Hope headsets that I still use today.

Strong, light weight and very smooth. I remember a guy from HopeUSA asking me where I had got the head set because he had no idea that Hope had them.

Story over. If I buy another headset it will be a Hope or a Syncros.

DBD

[Pato]

Originally Posted by BSki

From my understanding, a headset is only good for compressing the bar spacers prior to tightening the stem.

Edjumacate me please.

No, it not as simple as that. The headset is what allows you to turn your fork inside the frame. It is the interface which connects your frame and fork. It bears the full force of the combination your weight/speed/impact on the front end when you ride.

That being said, is it necessary to go out and upgrade? Will you see a noticeable difference between the Chris King and a properly installed and working $20 headset? In a word, no. Ride what you have now until it fails, then upgrade as necessary. But keep in mind that, often times, you get what you pay for.

That cheap $20 headset will work and continue to work, but will require much more due diligence in upkeep and regular maintenance. They usually are made using steel cups which may rust and gall inside your frame making it very difficult to remove. They will be made using loose, low quality steel ball bearings which are not sealed. If not cleaned out and greased regularly the bearings and cups will begin to pit and feel rough.

Usually, higher priced headsets are made to tighter tolerances which means a better more exact fit inside a frame. This reduces chances of head tube ovalization. Once your head tube is ovalized, it'll only be a matter of time before your frame is toast.

lmnop is correct. There is an upside to paying for Chris King. They are an extremely environmentally responsible company (or so they claim). Check out this link: http://www.chrisking.com/company/comp_index.html

$100 dollars, in my opinion, is a cheap price to pay for peace of mind. Lot's of people complain about the price of Chris King, but other manufacturers are just as expensive. They just happen to make lower priced options whereas King makes one for each application/standard. It's not that expensive in the bigger scheme of things when you look at some of the bikes they are on. Yes, it is a small part that has seemingly simple job, but it it is a very critical part.

Consider yourself edjumacated.

Duc

[MTBMaven]

One thought:


On the other hand I read a post on MTBR a few years ago (after I purchased my King) that even low end headsets are really good these days when installed properly. King made a name for itself back when headsets were manufactured as well as they are now, which lead to failure. King raised the bar and now there are plenty of others who make really good headsets. I also read on STR recently that suspension forks take almost all the stress off the headset.

What does all this mean? I think for most of us a good Cane Creek or FSA will prolly work perfectly for you. Just think if Red Hot Sloth got 6 years out of his Cane Creek for a $35 headset the King would have to last more than 17.14 years before you turned a profit. Figuring a King headset is $100. ($100/$35*6) Is my math correct? If so the numbers don't lie.

I would say the same thing for my King hubs. If I had to do it again I would not get them. If I wanted a high end hub I would go Phil Wood. From what I hear they PW's don't need to be rebuilt like the Kings do. I think something like a Hope is more than enough. For certain I would not spend the money on a King front hub. Front hubs do nothing. For my Niner build I got a WTB Laser Disc. Licensed design from American Classic. My 29er front wheel with NoTubes Arch will rival the weight of a road wheel. At $72 for a front hub with sealed bearings is not bad.

[Waldo]

I just use them 'cause everybody says they're cool and I cave to peer pressure really easily.

[BrewMaster]

Nothing against CK headsets, but it is such a simple mechanism that I fail to see the reason for paying 3X more. Tolerances are a nice idea, but a good quality headset from a less bling manufacturer will probably do just fine. I don't need a headset to last 17 years.

[Pato]

Originally Posted by MTBMaven

I also read on STR recently that suspension forks take almost all the stress off the headset.

This is incorrect, while suspension forks do reduce some of stress taken by the headset it does not reduce it appreciably. Even then, my guess is that it would mostly reduce it in one direction, that being the force parallel to the fork. Side and angular forces will not benefit from the suspension much. If a fork was able to eliminate stress from the headset, there would be no need for heavy welding and gusseting of the head tube area. On the contrary, with the trend towards longer travel forks, headsets and head tubes are seeing even greater angular forces. This is why the industry is seeing more and more frames incorporating the new 1.5" head tubes.

Originally Posted by MTBMaven

From what I hear they PW's don't need to be rebuilt like the Kings do. I think something like a Hope is more than enough.

All hubs need to be rebuilt sooner or later. Some just more often than others. Manufacturers must strike a balance between better seals to keep the lube in and water/dirt out vs. drag caused by the seal. This is more important in bikes because we are the engine (not a very good or efficient one at that) and too much drag will make pedalling uphill or long distances very hard. Also grease will break down eventually, especially the small amounts found in those tiny bearing cartridges.

People who buy King hubs usually do so for the VERY quick engagement of the rear. I've never opened up a Hope hub so I can't comment on the quality, but as for performance, they are not close to being in the same league.

I do agree with you on the front hub though. Anything will do. All it does is go round and round. It's just always nice to have a matching pair if you can swing it.

Please keep in mind I am not in any way remotely qualified to make any of the above statements and claims. I'm no rocket scientist or physics major nor do I play one on TV. Just an observation based on logic on my part. Oh, and I stayed at a Holiday Express Inn last night.

Duc

[Pho'dUp]

Originally Posted by BrewMaster

Nothing against CK headsets, but it is such a simple mechanism that I fail to see the reason for paying 3X more. Tolerances are a nice idea, but a good quality headset from a less bling manufacturer will probably do just fine. I don't need a headset to last 17 years.

Actually King HS cups run a hair smaller in diameter than some other brands. Usually a non issue, but in the rare case the headtube of your bike runs a hair bigger.... I know, I just went through this.

Don't forget, King is US made, greener manufacturing practices.. The new HOPE stuff is nice too, but sometimes having to wait for stuff from HOPE is not fun.

To each his own, I like my Kings though.

[un-kola]

Originally Posted by Red Hot Sloth

When I built my last and most recent bike, the "Heckler", I figured I would finally try one out. It works flawlessly.
On my previous builds of two other bikes I used a Cane Creek S-2 or S-3, It works flawlessly as well. The Cane Creek is currently on my hardtail, and is now 6 or 7 years old, I think I payed like $30 or $35 for it. My Chris King is 2 years old.
Was it worth it? to pay over a hundie for this? Well, time will tell. If it lasts ten years...yeah, it will be worth it.
I just wanted it for the novelty of bling. If you have the money, and aren't strapped when doing a build, or just plain "want" to upgrade, I say sure, why not. But if your kinda strapped and are doing a build, and it comes down to that or spending a little extra somewhere you will notice the difference like a fork or a shock, then by all means, wait on getting the CK. Use what you have, or buy a less expensive one until the time comes you have some cash to spend.
I'm sure the purchase will be worth it in the long run.
It's not always the bike, but the rider, unless you need strength and security knowing your going to hit the gnar gnar...then its best to spend a little extra for safety sake...and of course this bling is a perk

The last non-C/K headset I had was a Tioga that came on a Schwinn Homegrown f/s bike that I bought in '96.The race galled and became very sloppy to the point where I had to tighten it up every ride.I replaced it with a C/K in '98 and switched it over to a Spec.FSR in '99 and used it 'till late '03 when it was retired as a back-up and loaner bike.I installed a new C/K on a S.C. Blur in "03 an moved it to an Intense 5.5 this past spring.No trouble what-so-ever with the C/K headsets other than a break-in adjustment an an occasional cleaning. I've also used C/K hubs since '94 with little problems until I put a new set of C/K disc hubs on the Blur.Seems that the race where the non-driveside bearing sat in was not machined flat,(it was machined at a slight angle).The wheel would wobble and if tightened just a little bit,would bind up.After 3-4mos.of tinkering with it my lbs,(Incycle) sent it to C/K.They replaced the hub at no charge.They had recieved a few hubs back with the same problem and traced it to a machining alignment problem that came about as a result of the move up to Washington.No problem with it since then.Just cleaning and adjustment once or twice a year as I do put about 250 miles on them a month.I also have to give their service dept.credit,it took a 1-1/2 weeks to get the replacement. Made me happy as can be! - Lloyd

[SSinGA]

Originally Posted by BSki

Whats so special about a "Chris King" headset?

Nothing!!

Save your $$ and get a Cane Creek Solos - or if you want a little more bling with an insane warranty get the Cane Creek 110.





110

[mazda-monkey]

Originally Posted by SSinGA

Nothing!!

Save your $$ and get a Cane Creek Solos - or if you want a little more bling with an insane warranty get the Cane Creek 110.





110

I recently built a Santa Cruz using a Cane Creek S-8, and the quality seemed pretty good. I would suggest to use aluminum / carbon spacers, the plastic spacers the set came with were kinda cheesy.

[SSinGA]

Originally Posted by mazda-monkey

I recently built a Santa Cruz using a Cane Creek S-8, and the quality seemed pretty good. I would suggest to use aluminum / carbon spacers, the plastic spacers the set came with were kinda cheesy.

The 110 has alu interlocking spacers, however the plastic interlocking ones that come with the Solos work just fine. I have the Solos on 2 bikes with no issues.

[TooManyTacos]

I have one King that was part of a bike I bought, and another one that I bought used for $50. They seem good. My handlebar turns correctly and I guess that's wh