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Old 01-23-2008, 07:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Industry nine wheels

Anyone have a pair?

Likes/dislikes??

What what the weight in grams and what combination rim and rim strip are you using.

Contemplating these or some mavic.

Mavic have been good for me in the past. They dont require a rim strip, one less thing to go wrong.

I've not seen a pair of xmax29 but the I9 are hard to stop staring at in person.
Bring it!
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Old 01-23-2008, 07:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have a pair of the Enduros. 20mm t/a front, QR 135 rear. Don't know how much they weigh but others have said I9s quoted weights are accurate. I like that they are stiff, spin forever, and have ridiculously good engagement. Oh, and they sure are purdy. You could get an I9 wheel built with Mavic rims, you know?
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Old 01-23-2008, 07:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm either gonna be a traitor and buy a french product or not... stans rims seem legit and light. I don't hear many people bashin the stans stuff. So....
I'm wondering what spin forever means... 2000 miles no maintenance? in rain?
I've had a pair of crossmax... bomber... preach the word!
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Old 01-23-2008, 08:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The Crossmax wheels are notorious for the bushing in the freehub body wearing out. They are a great wheelset in terms of stiffness and power transfer but they are a lot more maintenance. You'll want to lubricate(often) and/or replace the freehub body periodically which will run you about 60-70 bucks each time, and even then you're not guaranteed to wear out the hub from this issue.

Read this review, it pretty much sums it up.
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Wheelset...t_125224.shtml

I personally would go with something else myself.
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Old 01-23-2008, 08:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I9's are ghey

case in point, Fo has 3 pair.
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Old 01-23-2008, 08:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burner View Post
I9's are ghey

case in point, Fo has 3 pair.
hmmm

I may have to sell mine.

By "spins forever" I mean they have super smooth bearings that spin forever in my very scientific spin the wheel with my hand test.
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Old 01-23-2008, 08:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You say the Crossmax have hub issues. Is this for all the Crossmax hubs. The review Rob posted was for the XL's.

What about the ST's SL's and SLR's. Does Mavic use the same hub throughout the Crossmax lineup??
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Old 01-23-2008, 09:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I had a pair of OG crossmax... never had any hub issues... woulnd't consider buying another pair in 29 size if I did... back when I had them I rode trails about 15 hrs a week... rode wheels for 3 years... I think that review is by some hater... but I asked so keep the commments rollin

Still no one hass listed actual weights for their wheels and how they are running them... The main issue is I'd like a pair of 29" wheels that will kick ass... suggestions??
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Old 01-23-2008, 09:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have run many I9 wheels ... and I love them. No issues for me - the only problem I've had was availability.
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Old 01-23-2008, 09:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Von-Skipp View Post
You say the Crossmax have hub issues. Is this for all the Crossmax hubs. The review Rob posted was for the XL's.

What about the ST's SL's and SLR's. Does Mavic use the same hub throughout the Crossmax lineup??

Do a quick google search, the link I posted was just the first one I saw. There's LOTS of stuff on the internet about this problem. And it's not just the XL's. They all use the same type of system in the hubs.

The key to preventing(or at least delaying the inevitable) this is very frequent re-lubrication(using Mavics lubricant) to the bushing, and then also replacing the freehub body after a few months of riding.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jslow View Post
I think that review is by some hater... but I asked so keep the commments rollin
I would hate a product too if it had a known problem and was not fixed by the manufacture.

That review was spot on. He even said he has a love/hate relationship with the wheels. He probably loves the stiffness and instant power transfer but hates the fact that it has a crappy freehub design.

Just trying to give you some relevant info. It is a known problem.
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Old 01-23-2008, 09:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
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This thread...needs...more ellipses...

BTW: So far I like the Maxis Crosstrails I have now. That's it...no scientific analysis. I just like 'em. If/when I wear out the freehub, I'll let you know.

If you want to see a good video tutorial about Mavic freehub issues, check out the RogueMechanic web site.
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Old 01-23-2008, 09:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Here's a description I found online about servicing them.


Has anyone had any problems w/ their CrossMax freewheel? Specifically, it seems to catch when coasting and this sometimes causes the chain to wrap around the cassette - not good...

Anyway, I'm gonna take it into the shop, but I was wondering if the specific shop matters, i.e. do they necessarily have to have Mavic experience or is it a relatively simple job?

Thanks in advance for any information,
Ed


There were some threads on this very subject in the last month. I'd do a search for Mavic CrossMax Freehub.
However I will tell you if you are mechanical at all you can do it yourself and unless you have access to a shop that has a lot of experience with Mavic Freehubs you are probably better off doing it yourself. Also included in those old threads is a link to get the Mavic tech. manual for the hubs which is quite helpful.
Having said all that I will kind of walk you through what you need to do.
1)Remove the cassette from the freehub. If you don't know you'll need a chainwhip, a cassette removal tool, and an adjustable wrench to unscrew the part holding the cassette to the freehub.
2)Pull the dust cap out of the non-drive side of the hub. It is held in by an "o" ring and may be a little stiff but if you rotate it inside the hub and pull, it may take pliers, it will pop out.
3)the drive side takes a 5 mm allen wrench, the non-drive side takes a 12 mm allen, it's a really big honker.The 12mm female allen head is well inside the hub. Unscrew the bolt that is on the drive side that holds the freehub to the hub body.
4)this will allow you to pull the outside of the freehub off of the inside revealing the pawls that are on the inside of the shaft.
I CAN'T EMPHASIZE HOW IMPORTANT IT IS TO PLACE THE WHEEL ON A TOWEL OR SOME OTHER FLAT UNCLUTTERED SURFACE AND DO EVERYTHING YOU CAN NOT TO LOSE ONE OF THE MICRO PAWL SPRINGS.
They are incredibly tiny and if you drop one they are nearly impossible to find. I will give you a tip from first hand experience; if you do drop one a very large magnet may help you find it. I used the magnet on a very large speaker, about a 10", to find one. Just try not to lose them.
5)With the freehub dissassembled it all needs to be thoroughly cleaned. You can use the solvent of your choice. Just make sure to clean everything well, dry, and continue to use caution regarding those springs.
6)Here's where most shops who don't "know" probably go wrong. Lube the pawls and other internal parts with a few drops of mineral oil. Not grease. This is what the Mavic tech manual recommends. Don't "drown" everything in mineral use it sparingly. I have done it and it works.
7)That's really it. At this point you reverse the procedure and reassemble the parts. The only thing to be aware of here is that there is a washer that goes on the bolt that holds the outside of the freehub to the hub. It goes between the inside of the freehub and the hub body. If you don't have it in place the freehub won't spin freely as it is supposed to. After you have done this your problems should be solved.
My freehub has never gotten so sticky that it spun and grabbed the chain like yours, rather mine start screeching first telling me it's time to clean and lube.
Again if you are used to doing your own maintenance you should be able to do this.
Good luck!
Wild Bill

http://archive.mtbr.com/09/0EFE0FE3.php
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Old 01-23-2008, 09:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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When we ordered a pair recently for a customer...took nearly 3 months to get them...customer loves the wheels but getting them was frustrating for all involved...if you can find them in a shop great...if you have to order them...plan on waiting a while!
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Old 01-23-2008, 10:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I have an enduro set, on DT 5.1s with stans strip (20mm front/10mm rear). The set is light, stiff, strong and has great engagement. I got a great price on them from The path otherwise I probably would have just gone with a set of hadleys.

The main issue I would have with them is availability on spare parts. Say you were at a resort and snapped a spoke and didn't have the spares, chances are you are out of luck but if they were traditional spokes, you could get a replacement fairly easy. I have snapped a spoke when my RD went into my spokes when i hit branch and even the path didn't have spares at the time, I had to get my set at my house before I could get them repaired.
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:23 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
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The main issue I would have with them is availability on spare parts. Say you were at a resort and snapped a spoke and didn't have the spares, chances are you are out of luck but if they were traditional spokes, you could get a replacement fairly easy
this is only a theoretical issue.....frankly, you should ALWAYS have spare spokes on hand, as with any wheelset. If you ever get low for some reason (ie, total nutjob on your wheelsets) you shoudl just call the great guys at I9 and get some more spares.....so bottom line, this is not really a theoretical issue but a NON-issue so long as you make sure you have backups (as with any other wheelset).

As Burnout indicates, I have 3 pairs and friggin love em. Best wheelsets I have had the good fortune of owning. I am very, very biased towards companies who provide killer customer service and have real people i can talk to. Guys at I9 are great and I definitely am a believer. I have had Kings, and like em...had Hopes, and like em, but really, really like I9s, period
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:32 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jslow View Post
.....the I9 are hard to stop staring at in person.
If they are hard to stop staring at in person: Just imagine how difficult it will be when... nevermind!
A picture is worth 1,000 words!

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Old 01-23-2008, 11:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I 9 , They are great wheels for XC/AM. I would not trust them for DH.
High tension on stiff aluminum spokes on soft DT swiss rims= Rim Catastrophic failure.
You can set them up with Mavic rims, They are a stronger stiffer wheel. The only problem then is the hub and spokes turn into your weak link.
They are by far the best eye candy out there. ((Bling city))
If you want more details call The Bike Co and ask for Joe. He can hook you up with the proper wheels for what you plan on doing. He know I9 wheels really well.
Tani at the path has seen a lot of wheels come through the shop he also can answer any questions you might have.
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Old 01-24-2008, 12:14 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Josh did you forget to eat you're weekly can of worms?
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Old 01-24-2008, 05:43 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I9 wheels are by far the best you can get. The hubs (enduro) are convertible to any of the current axle configs used by fork mfg. The engagement of the rear is outstanding and they are so easy to service without special tools. They are a super stiff wheel that has no durability problems. I rode my 1st set for 1.5 years with only 1 broken spoke (crashed on a rock that would have taken out any spoke). They were the Enduro on DT5.1 rims, 20mm front axle. 1865g as advertised.

My newest set is on Flow rims with Enduro hubs - 20mm front and 10mm thru rear. I don't recall their exact weight but it was slightly less than the 1st set. The Flows were a little harder to get the spoke tension set but they have settled in and are running true.

Unlike Fo, I didn't buy them for the bling - both sets were solid black - I got them for the performance.




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Old 01-24-2008, 07:15 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Has that the freehub body problem with Crossmax has been solved in 2007?

There's an interesting thread about this on Rogue Mechanic:
http://roguemechanic.typepad.com/rog...es_a_mavi.html

Text from a post there:

Quote:
Crossmax XL's
If your cassette hub body has ever skipped a pawl, remove and inspect for small metal shaving, these will help chew up the hub spindle and piss you off.
Here is the fix for all us 2006 and down owners:
1. Buy a set of the 2007 pawls (#32430301)- Harder material (stainless steel, will/should not chip).
2. Buy a new cassette hub body (#M40580) (start fresh)
3. Most important! Buy the new seal (#99500001)! They claim this is the problem, it let's dirt in the hub and this creates a sand paper effect. The big concern is the nylon bushing built on the hub cassette body will grind (w/dirt) away at the hub shaft creating play, thus ruining it!
I think its the seal and soft pawls.
4. Use the Mavic Mineral Oil(I read Pedros Road Rage will work also).
Anybody have any experience with using the newer parts on your older wheel? There's also a very nice video tutorial on how to replace the freehub body.
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