29er Wheelset - Ideas

[Burner]

I taco'd a rear wheel recently (same rim as dean, tk7.1), just had it replaced with a flow, haven't ridden it yet. But I still have the other tk7.1 up front.

Also have a new set of wheels with arches for the SS, yet to be ridden.

Looks like I have some Stan's rim testing to do! Also going to be my first venture tubeless.

[cH4os]

I taco'd my WTB LaserDisc ...

[CaptainK29er]

What do you guys think about the Mavic 719 29er rims?

I heard some good things about them.

[Patrick]

I'm 215, riding Ventana El Rey, hard on wheels. Now using an Arch/Hope TA straight guage spokes, brass nipples, very light and has not moved a nano meter. When I bust my rear Bonti, going to put a Flow on the back, that's what my bro rides on his Sultan, Arch F, Flow R, you'll be hard pressed to move these off line.

I think you need to get out and ride more KB!

[Patrick]

Eyelets: aluminum nipples can chemically fuse to aluminum eyelets over time...

[CaptainK29er]

Hey Patrick,

I'm off for the summer.

Let's go riding!

P.S. I never see your car in your driveway. I know you have a new job. Are you always working or riding? When are we going to take care of our local trails in San Juan Hills? I'll shoot you a PM.

[thephat]

My thoughts:

1. Burley is relative.

2. All rims will die given the correct impact, or side load.

3. C-Xray spokes are about as light as Supercomps, and a bit stronger. They add some time to the wheel build, they can cut you, they add well over $100 to the cost of the wheel set.

4. About 100 ksi is the best spoke tension most of the time (for the tighter side). The variance should be less than 5% in my opinion (on one side of any wheel). The tension on the looser side should be where it needs to be to creat propper dish when the tighter side reaches max optimal ksi. Most of the spokes should be way closer than 5%, but sometimes compromise must be reached do to rim iregularity.

5. The A 719 is a high quality rim that tensions up nicely. It is a bit heavy for how narrow it is.

6. Riding style has as much to do with wheel life as any other factor. Agressive, or lazy riding can kill rims. If you are light on your feet, keep the front wheel strait, and ride dh out of the saddle, it will help. It helps if you are relaxed, and feel in controle.

7. It only takes one perfect hit to kill any wheel (rim).

8. I like eyeleted rims, but it's not a deal braker for me. I am not sure that eyelets add strength. They make the nipple turn real nice.

9. If properly treated during the building and trueing processes, alloy nipples will usually last as long as most wheels-at least a couple of years.

[bent steel]

I've had good luck with Flows on my single speed, with I9's and the oversized DT Swiss RWS. The wider rim section makes for a nice, flatter contact patch, which I really like.

As an occassional wheel builder, I really didn't like the idea of a non-eyeleted rim, but they've been great so far, no complaints.

It's certainly possible to grenade any rim, but the Flows on a single speed should be just about bullet proof. I've had a few friends fold up Arches, but have yet to see a blown Flow. I'm sure it's possible, but for 55g, I'll take the extra insurance.