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Old 12-01-2007, 08:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Suggestions for an AM hardtail

Hey all,

So I want to build up (or buy complete) an all mountainish hard tail.

I'm open to all frame material possibilities and brands, but here's my general criteria.

1. reasonable geometry with a 130 - 150 mm fork (fork TBD) to accomodate all kinds of riding. This will be used for everything from light jumping to occasional XC racing at beginner or sport level.
2. light weight, I'm not heavy and I will not be hucking this thing very much, so I don't need a heavily-overbuilt frame. looking to build the whole bike up at or around 25 lbs. (give or take a few)
3. not too too expensive, I'm pretty poor with my part time job and full time school, but I'm willing to invest as much as possible into the bike.

What do you all say? suggestions and approx. prices would be largely appreciated.
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Old 12-01-2007, 08:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Check this out.

http://www.konaworld.com/08_fiveo_w.htm
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Old 12-01-2007, 08:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Start with a SC Chameleon frame:

1. designed to run up to 160mm fork

2. More than strong enough for DJ'ing and flexible enough to race XC on

3. $499 was the price on the frames before they just redesigned them. You should be able to find one new with the last design for a pretty good price.

Build it up as you want.

I have one that I use as my XC race bike. 25.5-26 lbs for a XL frame depending on tires. Have run one in the past with DH gear and it was a blast. Currently running a Vanilla RLC 130mm on mine.
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Old 12-01-2007, 09:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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sweetness, thanks.

The chameleon has looked good to me since I first set my sights on a hardtail, I may have to look into it further
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Old 12-01-2007, 09:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Marin B17 build



Drop the seat for 4X/Dirt jumping/BMX racing

99 Bucks will buy you a new one at Adrenaline. It's strong as hell(I'm 230lbs and beat on it)

Built around a 5" travel fork, gusseting at the headtube, hydroformed tubing.

Frame weighs a little over 5 lbs so you know it's strong.
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Old 12-01-2007, 10:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You can't go wrong with a Chameleon, I have had mine for 2.5 years and have ridden all over the world on it, literally. I do everything on this bike and it has never let me down. I am building up a full suspension bike in the spring and I am having my trusty "Cammy" re-powdercoated. Later.
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Old 12-02-2007, 12:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I have a 19" Performance Access frame for sale for $20. I've seen people running them with 5" travel forks. Just thought I'd throw it out there.
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Old 12-02-2007, 02:37 AM   #8 (permalink)
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$20 bucks? really? I'm tempted to snap that up and just throw cruiser parts on it until I have the money to go all out on the build.

20 bucks seems a bit steep though, would you take $3? actually i might be interested as a 20 dollar frame would allow me to get the parts first, then upgrade the frame after that. Picking it up might also be fun as I haven't been down to san diego for a while. seriously interested, although probably not for a week or so I'd imagine (I've got finals at school and no time for a day trip).
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Old 12-02-2007, 06:30 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Know anyone going the the Sladnas/SD newb ride?? They could pick it up for you.
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Old 12-02-2007, 08:36 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Specialized P3 but its $$$. Maybe a used one?
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Old 12-02-2007, 08:45 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutch View Post
$20 bucks? really? I'm tempted to snap that up and just throw cruiser parts on it until I have the money to go all out on the build.

20 bucks seems a bit steep though, would you take $3? actually i might be interested as a 20 dollar frame would allow me to get the parts first, then upgrade the frame after that. Picking it up might also be fun as I haven't been down to san diego for a while. seriously interested, although probably not for a week or so I'd imagine (I've got finals at school and no time for a day trip).
I live and work in North County, so you wouldn't have to drive that far.
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Old 12-02-2007, 10:53 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Both that Kona 5-0 and the Specialized P3 others recommended are not XC bikes. Those look more like dirt jumpers or something. Focus on getting something light. I don't necessarily have a recommendation but I can say you should avoid overbuilt frames with double ring rockguards like both those bikes have. They might be fun bikes, but you wouldn't stand a chance racing those XC.
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Old 12-02-2007, 11:15 AM   #13 (permalink)
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My suggestion would be to avoid aluminum at all cost. Having ridden both Alu and Steel, i'd never ride an Alu HT ever again.

If I had the coin I'd buy one of black market Mob with verticle dropouts and build it up kinda burly and light, probably pretty easy to get it to around 26lbs.

http://www.blackmarketbikes.com/mob.html
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Old 12-02-2007, 11:33 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0gravity View Post
Both that Kona 5-0 and the Specialized P3 others recommended are not XC bikes. Those look more like dirt jumpers or something. Focus on getting something light. I don't necessarily have a recommendation but I can say you should avoid overbuilt frames with double ring rockguards like both those bikes have. They might be fun bikes, but you wouldn't stand a chance racing those XC.
True. Most of the ones mentioned lean toward strength rather than light weight. However, for the intended purpose of the OP any of the bikes above would work great.

You can go wrong two ways: You can have a bike that's slightly too heavy where it may not be as competitive in an XC race, or you can have a bike that is slightly too weak and it breaks causing a crash. If you're going to be wrong, in which way do you want to be wrong? I've made the wrong decisions in this regard, which landed me in the hospital. I would now rather have a heavier bike.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2w4s View Post
My suggestion would be to avoid aluminum at all cost. Having ridden both Alu and Steel, i'd never ride an Alu HT ever again.

If I had the coin I'd buy one of black market Mob with verticle dropouts and build it up kinda burly and light, probably pretty easy to get it to around 26lbs.

http://www.blackmarketbikes.com/mob.html
Why not aluminum? There are many very durable aluminum HTs out there that work well for as dirt jumpers. The design of the frame has more affect on how a bike rides than the material used.
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Old 12-02-2007, 04:24 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I'll recomend the Chameleon. It really is a good bike across the board. I am curious though what people who have them built up as an XC bike are using as kit. Mine is a medium white one that is set up for AM with older parts and a Tora (the only fork i could afford at the time). Drop that Tora to its lowest setting and it'll climb almost anything. About the only down side of the medium frame and AM set-up is that the cock-pit is a bit cramped. (I'm 5'10"). Not sure that it'd be too comfortable for a 24 hour event but for a shorter XC course it'd probably work great.
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Old 12-02-2007, 06:11 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jman View Post
I'll recomend the Chameleon. It really is a good bike across the board. I am curious though what people who have them built up as an XC bike are using as kit. Mine is a medium white one that is set up for AM with older parts and a Tora (the only fork i could afford at the time). Drop that Tora to its lowest setting and it'll climb almost anything. About the only down side of the medium frame and AM set-up is that the cock-pit is a bit cramped. (I'm 5'10"). Not sure that it'd be too comfortable for a 24 hour event but for a shorter XC course it'd probably work great.

At 6' I ran a large frame for evrything but full on XC riding. I too found the toptube to be on the short side. So I sold the frame off and went with a XL frame for XC racing. Remember, with the Chameleon....they are smaller than the size listed. THe XL was a 21" that fit like a 20", the L was a 19" that fit like a 18", etc. I did a few XC races on the the Large frame. However, I prefer the XL for the XC racing. Have done several 24hr events as well as Vision Quest on the XL.
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Old 12-02-2007, 06:13 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I'm going to try getting the set back seat post by Thompson that someone here recomended as well as a slightly longer (120mm) that the LBS owner recomended to use without altering the steering too much to see if I can get a bit of stretch in the cock-pit.
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Old 12-02-2007, 07:16 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Default check out

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...0+Bike+05.aspx

Upgrade the parts when they break or wear out. They hve a cheaper model for $400, same frame

or

http://www.leaderbikestore.com/pd_ld_516h1.cfm
& build it up.

I have Leader 510 frame that rocks
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Old 12-02-2007, 08:06 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0gravity View Post
Both that Kona 5-0 and the Specialized P3 others recommended are not XC bikes. Those look more like dirt jumpers or something. Focus on getting something light. I don't necessarily have a recommendation but I can say you should avoid overbuilt frames with double ring rockguards like both those bikes have. They might be fun bikes, but you wouldn't stand a chance racing those XC.
I thought he said "all-mountain"?

If he's racing XC on either bike, and having fun, sounds like he stands a chance to me.
I took third in Sports Clydes XC at Mt. SAC racing on my 39 lb Stinky.

The Kona 5-0 is Kona's "all-mountain" hardtail.
I believe the P-3 is a "dirt-jump" bike.

My Kona HOSS is built up as just a "mountain bike".
http://www.konaworld.com/bikes/2k7/H...UXE/index.html

I run a five inch travel fork, some more sturdy than average parts, and do everything from XC races to 130 miles over the weekend rides, to 4-5 foot drops.

It weighs 31.5 lbs, but I'm not light either, so it works for me.

The geometry is 68 HA, with a 71 SA. Pretty good all mountain geometry. I believe the frame comes in right around 4.5 lbs.

Good luck with your search!
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Old 12-02-2007, 09:30 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wheel_lee View Post
Why not aluminum? There are many very durable aluminum HTs out there that work well for as dirt jumpers. The design of the frame has more affect on how a bike rides than the material used.
well, 2whee lee, I've seen your pics so I'm pretty sure you already know the answer but anyhow. Because a well designed steel frame will be more compliant vertically than a similarly designed aluminum frame. Try the metal challenge and take both steel and alu frames to a rocky trail and ride both, the steel frame will feel much more damped than the alu frame. The Mob frame is true temper supertherm. Alu is plenty durable, it just doesn't feel very good on the ankles and knees...

I agree that for straight DJ'ing an alu frame works OK, but steel will always feel better when casing a jump, or even when just landing something hard. Throw in trail riding and steel will win hands down. unless you can afford titanium, in which case i say; Screw you, Mr. Rich guy!!!

My urban xc/ dj / park bike.
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