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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I have my older Steel Frame Gary Fisher Tarpon. It's bee a great low end bike. But I've been ridng a new Giant Warp and will be picking up a Raleigh M80 within a few months.
I've been thinking about taking my old Gary and converting it to a SS. How much will it cost do do that? My current wheel set uses a Freewheel hub, I've seen pricepoint.com sell a SS freewheel converter for about $20 and a tensioner for another $30. The only other cost I can think of are the cranks. My current ones are the cheap kind that have the chain rings riveted to each other. Any suggestions? |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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color Stealth Black, Corsair Blue
size 16.5, 18.5, 20.5 frame FluidForm ALUXX Aluminum Long Travel Suspension, 4" (top bolt position)/5" (bottom bolt position) adjustable rear travel fork RST Omega T4, 4" travel derailleur Front: Shimano Alivio, Rear: Shimano Alivio, 8 speed derailleurshifters Shimano EF-29, 8-speed cranks Giant, 22/32/42T pedals Alloy Platform handlebar 1.25" riser stem Giant 1 1/8 Ahead headset Integrated Ahead 1 1/8 levers Shimano EF-29 brakes Alloy Direct Pull saddle WTB Speed V seatpost Giant alloy micro-adjust, 30.8mm, QR seat lever rims Alex ACE-18, Black doublewall, 36H w/CNC sidewall hubs Alloy 32H, QR, casset tires WTB WeirWolf 26x2.21 rearshock Giant HV, coil over w/ rebound adjust, 4"/5" rear travel cassette Shimano HG-50 11-30T, 8-speed spokes Stainless Steel 14G additional Chainguard http://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/030...04&model=10824 The folks in Cycling Concepts of Artesia hooked me up for $450. That's $100 off sticker price. ![]() |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I couldn't complain about it. It shifts really well. The fork could be better, but for now it is just fine. It's a nice ride, I'm very happy with it. I did tweak the rear wheel just a bit while going down Lynx and Rockit a few weeks ago.
The best part of the bike is the price I paid for it. RL |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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STR Veteran
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Quote:
Cheap, simple and functional. Also, if it's an old beater frame and you don't mind doing a little dremmel work; you can take 1.5 mm off the front and rear inside edges of the drop outs, and eliminate the need for a chain tensioner alltogether. This worked great for the SS that I lost at Maple Springs. Hope this helps.
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See ya on the trails
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#17 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Now that's what I'm talking about. Bikes on a Budget!
Appreciate your input. I will have to consider that once that time is ready. My main issue though is that my rear wheel is a freewheel hub. So I haven't seen an adapter that will work on a freewheel. I'd hate to spend money on something that I will only use once in a while. What did you do for the rear hub/wheel? |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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My buddy and I just finished his new SS-conversion, last night. Here's the breakdown as I can recall it, to result in a sub-$200 SS:
--Frame: Schwinn Moab $40 --Fork: Judy Air w/ spring conversion, Parts Bin --Headset: Tioga cheapo, $28 --Cranks: no-name off NRS, drilled rivets to extract rings --Ring/Guard: BlackSpire 34 and FSA bash guard: $50 --Bottom Bracket: UN73, $28 --Wheelset: Parts Bin --Cog, Shimano 17, out of LX cassette in parts bin --Spacers, $10 @ shop --Chain: PC-1, $10 No tensioner...got lucky --Tires: Performance $12 sale 2.1" 120 tpi kevlar bead knobbies --Tubes: Perf Sale, $4 --Brakes: Avid 7 lever/brake, parts bin --Bars: Titec, parts bin --Stem: Titec, parts bin --Grips: Oury $6 --Saddle: Titec, parts bin --Seat post: Performance, $22 --cables/housing: generic, $6 @ shop Rides great.
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